How glorious to see the sunrise reflected off a glacier! We were to be at sea much of the day because we were tackling the long journey southeast and then north around the bottom of Spitzbergen to eventually reach Longyearbyen. Sea days are fine with me because there is always plenty to see and do, but today we had a delightful zodiac cruise along the 15km face of the glacier. Our zodiac driver, Leonie, was determined to show us as much of the glacial front as safely possible. We traced corners and strange sculptures created by calvings. Leonie is (on other cruise expeditions) coordinator of citizen science projects so she has a real appreciation for what it means to some passengers to understand the environment they are in. She made it an excellent zodiac cruise.
Sun reflecting off an ice wall. Birds wait for the glacier to calve and bring nutrients to the surface
The scene was spectacular but the reflections were even more breathtaking
But then it got just a little bit more special. Leonie said that we were going to do some citizen science from the zodiac which of course we were quite thrilled about. So she and another zodiac nosed in close to the glacier before revealing the experiment – it was to determine if champagne tasted better at sea level or on board ship! Cheeky thing – we all had a great laugh. From a box, which we thought held some sort of equipment, she produced a magnum of champers and glasses and we toasted ourselves and the stunning environment and life in general.
The magic box! We thought we were going to measure plankton density - haha
Cheers!
Then it was back to the ship to continue our journey towards the west coast of Spitzbergen.
(I have to say that the place names were difficult to remember - and pronounce - so some of the places and names have become mixed up in my mind but the pictures speak for themselves – we were very remote).
Reindeer in the distance dwarfed by this magnificent landscape
We were heading south and west to eventually reach Longyearbyen on the island of Spitzbergen. Today however we were to spend some time around the island of Barentsoya. This morning we were to land at Sundneset where reindeer had been sighted but which was also a good place to hike – for those who chose. We could see reindeer from the ship and the expedition team (and us) were hoping that we would get a closer look at the animals on shore. By the time a couple of zodiac loads of passengers had landed and started walking towards where the animals were grazing, however, they had moved off. So we only saw them from a great distance.
It was fairly rugged terrain and many took it at a gallop missing tiny plants
We discovered this frozen pool with a lacy fringe of icy froth
We always had an armed guard. This guy was actually our group leader this morning
There was some confusion about what we were supposed to be doing – wandering I thought, but we were herded into a group which took off up the hill towards a higher plateau. It was steep and stony and not something either of us would have chosen to do had we been given an option and there was no going back (we have to keep together with our armed guards in case of bears). So we clambered up a cliff lagging behind the leader and many in the group. It was tough going but in the end the view out over the lakes, grazing grounds and mountains was rather beautiful. The walk was typical of many – people seem to be treating them as just another ‘polar’ walk to tick off and as exercise. Me? I wanted to wander and look at the plants and rocks – actually to simply enjoy it all, explore the place we had travelled so far to see. The pace they set meant that by the time we had caught up with the group who were resting, they were heading off again.
We made it back to the landing beach which was littered with driftwood and bones
Not as enjoyable an outing as we had hoped for despite the view from the top of a small ridge. When we came back to the ship we discovered that we could have stayed close to shore and beachcombed. Oh well, so much for being obedient but I did see some wee plants dwarfed by the frigid temperatures but hanging on for dear life. A number of different saxifrage species including the Spider Saxifrage which populates by sending out tendrils (more like an octopus really), Mountain Avens, Dwarf Willow, birch, many species of grass, lichen and moss. Apart from one man from the UK, there seemed to be no one interested in plants and it seemed that none of the expedition team had any local plant knowledge. Rather a pity given the special nature of flora in the Arctic region. That so many species survive alternating freezing and thawing, their ability to flourish and keep fruiting means their biology is pretty amazing.
This Saxifraga flagellaris survives in stony ground and produces beautiful wee flowers
Stunning place
That afternoon we landed at Kapp Lee on Edgeoya. This was a safe harbour and was used by Russian whalers, trappers, oil explorers, etc., a long time ago.
L: old Russian hut. R: old expeditioner in front of one of the oil explorers' huts
A desolate graveyard beach - the scale of the area dwarfs the bones that are scattered
The Russians built a hut here and it is still standing 100-odd years later. Some time after the Russians left (probably having wiped out local populations of walrus) two other huts were built. This time they were erected by Caltex when they were exploring for oil in the area.
Quite tricky walking on ice
The wee creeks and pools were frozen and extremely slippery
It was a gruesome testament to an earlier perhaps needy time.
The remains of the marine animals killed mostly by the Russians remain scattered right along the shore. The bones were mostly those from walruses which for me made it all the more distressing to see.
Lindsay inspecting a bone fragment - maybe from a flipper
A scapula from a marine mammal
This arrangement of skulls and bone is rather macabre - more recent I suspect
A jawbone
Frozen remnants of life
The landscape was quite beautiful but it was a sobering place to visit. History is not always pretty and Svalbard got its full share and more of opportunists. The day however ended with glorious colour across the sea.
The map traces our route through Svalbard. The large circle is where we will be tomorrow
Sometime during the night our route took us past a tiny island. There a member of the science team on board retrieved the buoy they had attached on the Arctic ice floe last year. As with the one they attached to the ice at the North Pole this year, this one was planted last year and drifted with the floe ending up on this island (it sends signals that the team were able to pick up). A small recovery party went ashore in the dead of night (when we were passing the spot). These devices measure a number of sea ice properties and track the North Pole ice flow. Very exciting for the scientists, and the enthusiasts, on board.
Such remoteness was exhilarating yet humbling - we landed on a beach on Nordaustlandet
This morning was very special and a wonderful surprise. We were off to find walruses - my favourite Arctic marine mammal! At the briefing last night our leader had mentioned the possibility but everything always depends on the wildlife and the weather. Today it all came together! We set off from our landing at one of the beaches of Nordaustlandet and walked a couple of km over gravelly tiers, past washed-up timber, animal scat, feathers (with attachments sometimes) and moist depressions growing communities of algae and mosses. It looked desolate but we saw evidence of Arctic Foxes and Arctic Hares, Svalbard Reindeer and migratory geese as well as other birds - but fortunately not bears although one was spotted in the distance. I also saw evidence of a campfire, how old we couldn't determine. We had to be very quiet so as not to spook the walruses who were hauled out in the next bay. Have you ever tried walking quietly on gravel?
Of course we were walking in big gumboots wearing our life jackets - we didn't move quietly
This speaks for itself in terms of remoteness - glorious
I have no idea what causes these divots but they pockmarked the beach
This was a small body of water completely frozen over
At the edge of the water species of algae grew providing a nutritious food source
And finally we came upon them! A magnificent huddle of Atlantic Walrus, Odobenus rosmarus rosmarus, flopped on the beach sunbaking and generally smooching. These magnificent creatures are thigmotaxic meaning they gravitate to cuddling, seeking out skin contact with others. We watched and watched and watched until we had to drag ourselves away. In the meantime, small groups of mainly youngsters had bobbed, roiled and tumbled towards us in the water popping their heads up to check us out. Soo very curious. One group would tumble past us rolling over each other only to be replaced by another group of mainly young curious ‘cuddle sacks’. One large animal was further along the beach and we reckon he was on lookout duty - he just kept popping his head up to scan the beach. My pix aren’t all that great but they embellish the memories I have of those magnificent creatures. Quite a few of our group climbed a hill nearby, presumably to get a better view, but we reckon we had a ringside seat!
In case you don’t know walruses spend time in fairly shallow water usually close to land where the food is. They eat mainly shellfish sucking the ‘contents’ out of the shells with probably the most powerful mouth suction of any animal. They locate of their food with stiff whiskers which they can move independently - they are very tactile creatures. But enough! I could go on and on about these darlings.
Let me tell you about the beach tiers I mentioned. These are believed to have emerged as the ice from successive ice ages melted and, without the weight of the overlying ice, the land rose. It is still happening across the entire Arctic and subarctic regions (we encountered them in the NW Passage last year). Global warming indeed but in an almost inconceivably large time frame. We are not seeing anything new in the history of our wonderfully watery planet as it cycles through successive ice and hot-house ages. We have ‘living’ proof of a warmer Arctic period in the form of a fossil that Lindsay found in one of the mountains of Svalbard 5 years ago.
I love this photo because it looks like our ship is parked on the gravel
We came back to the ship very happy only to be treated to a wonderful brunch - seafood galore, every imaginable little temptation, suckling pig - and then you could order something extra from the menu, as if we needed anything more - but we did anyway! It was a marvellous finale to what for me had been an exceptional and special morning.
Oysters with a vinaigrette plus foie gras with truffle and apricot
The smoked salmon station
Lobster, crab, periwinkles, snails, prawns
After that wonderful morning, our late afternoon zodiac cruise to the glacial front of Brasvellbreen was a wee bit of an anticlimax. But that’s perhaps a bit harsh as this forms part of a glacial front which extends for 160 km on the south and west coast of Nordaustlandet, part of the ice cap which is the third largest in the world. Our guide was more than a little nervous so we didn’t get within at least a kilometre of the glacier but the sky and sea cast a rather glorious glow as the light started to fade. The weird and fanciful shapes of the little icebergs were intriguing particularly backlit by a sinking sun. Finally, as we chilled out over dinner, the sun set leaving a glorious blood-red slash across the horizon. I will leave you to browse.
The pale green undercut on the glacier's front is where it has recently calved
It is a mighty impressive glacier
Fanciful patterns
Wonderful striated patterns created by glacial moraine
Late afternoon sun casts a golden glow over the ice
Chantilly lace on a golden sea
This doesn't do it justice but in a world with little colour, this sunset was a spectacular blaze.
Every evening before dinner we had a recap of the day and a briefing for the next day - I have included a couple of pix from that. Firstly an image of where we are currently travelling and secondly a lovely photo of walruses taken by the ship's photographer. Such amazing creatures.
This is Svalbard (with a few heads at the bottom!). Nordaustlandet is on the right
