Monday, September 30, 2024

September 29 heading for Streymoy and the most northern village on Eysturoy

Today we were to taking in two islands - Streymoy and Eysturoy. The morning was a little drizzly but that didn't dampened our mood.  Because of the rain overnight the mountains which surround us as we drove were fringed with curtains of waterfalls sending mega litres of water barreling down the slopes; the land must be almost constantly saturated. It was quite magnificent. 

Today we drove, via sea tunnel over 5km long! to another island, the island of Streymoy, to explore before driving onto the island of Eysturoy via a bridge turns out! There we were to stay at Gjogv. 

The Saga Museum is housed in the Vestmanna Tourist centre
We were heading for Vestmanna to visit the Saga museum which also promised a hearty bowl of fish soup (Vestmanna means ‘man from the west’ which in this case were Irish monks who came seeking solitude to worship). The museum was rather like a walk through history. The fish soup was going to cost us about $30 so we opted out and head back into the rain and on to a small village, Kvivik which huddles on either sides of the river Stora. Here archaeologists have found the remains of a Viking settlement.  Unfortunately the rain prevented us getting out to get a proper look at some places – it was simply too wet and often rather slippery. 

There is a memorial in this graveyard to the Vikings 
We took a fortuitous detour and discovered a wonderful waterfall and a wee village with a gorgeous little tuft-roofed church. All the time it was raining which blurred the scenery somewhat but we were still able to enjoy it.
Quaint turf-roofed church at Kladbak
Tyggjara waterfall
The sound of the roaring waterfall was deafening
Then it was time to make our way to our night’s accommodation which was in Gjogv, the most northern village on this island. It is named for the long deep, sea-filled gorge around which it nestles. It took us two attempts before we were game to tackle the road which, because of the approaching winter weather, claimed to be closed to all but local and rescue vehicles. 
This was the turn off to reach our village through the mountains
Our second attempt we read the sign properly -  another day before it would be closed!
We later discovered that closure didn’t come into effect for another day – phew we were safe – sort of! The trip over the mountains to reach wee isolated Gjogv was pretty hair raising but ultimately we got there albeit nervous wrecks as the road was wet, foggy in parts and extremely narrow. I can understand why it’s closed to general traffic during winter.  
On our way over the mountains, we passed a turn off to a ‘road’ that zig zagged down a long deep valley to the sea. That wasn’t our road thankfully and so I was breathing a sigh of relief - at the time! Little did I know then that we would have to travel that self-same road a couple of times the next day. You have to remember that this was only our second day of riving Faroe’s roads (most of which masquerade as tracks!).  A day driving in and out of rain on often challenging roads but what an ending! 
Our B&B was perched on the side of a hill with spectacular views of the sea and surrounding mountains. For the time we were safe in our little eyrie surrounded by thick lush vegetation which I imagined would be a glorious profusion of flowers in spring. It was lovely and we were safe! We dined in that night as we needed something more than a ‘picnic’; food is pretty expensive here as you can imagine. 
Our room was just up the slop and it definitely was a room with a view!
Glorious 
Up close the turf roofs are interesting. Be stunning if there are flowers amongst that.

Sunday, September 29, 2024

September 28 first day Vagar Island

 

A room with a view - from our hotel window
Today was our first day in the Faroes on the island of Vagar – there are 18 islands in the group and all but one are inhabited and 6 regions most of which we were to visit. This day turned out to be perfect weatherwise and the scenery glorious – it was a stunning day.  Our first taste of this fairytale place didn’t disappoint – towering lush mountains, long-haired sheep, turf-roofed houses, tiny villages.  Enjoy the postcard story below!

The village of Sorvagur from where the Mykines ferry departs
Lots of cute little boathouses renovated as tourist accommodation
Pretty 'highland' cattle came to the fence to say hello
There are lots of skerries and islets in the Faroes - the shapes are rather fanciful.
Marine farming is everywhere where there's good water
The sheep roam free and often look as if they are glued to the steep slopes
Even new structures have turf roofs
This is the beginning of the Gonguturur walk - we just looked!
Delightful picnic spot
Location location!
Quaint church watched over by a huge slope dusted with snow 
Fearless sheep just move aside as you approach - or not!
We found the ‘lake over the sea’ – Sorvagsvatn or Leitisvatn, which appears suspended above the sea (it’s a blind fjord). We tried to find a road to drive around it but weren’t able to. But we found a lovely sculpture along the shores – the Nix.
“According lo Faroese folklore, the Nix lives in water and has his dwelling down at the bottom of the lake, though frequently he comes up on dry land. it does not bode well to encounter him. He lures people to pet and stroke him by appearing as a beautiful horse who is kind and tame. However, once you touch his tail, you are permanently attached to him. He will never let you go but drags you off to his home at the bottom of the lake."
This is a magical place complete with myths, legends and sagas. 
Sorvagsvatn

The Nix
We drove through our first tunnel and there were many more to come. Quite scary driving into the darlness only to have a swt of headlights come bearing down on you.  And we found a supermarket to stock our mobile larder – hooray.  Hard to know what's what but exploring supermarkets in foreign countries is always rather fun. We had a picnic that night.

Saturday, September 28, 2024

September 27 Paris to the Faroe Islands

First glimpse of the towering cliffs
Today we flew out to Vagar in the Faroe Islands where Arctic temperatures await us. At 62N (just a few degrees south of the official boundary of the Arctic Circle), the Faroes lie midway between Norway and Iceland, and are NW of the Shetland Islands.  The plane wasn’t full which I hope augurs well for a quiet visit. But when we touched down the temperature was 4C (feeling like -6C!)
We arrived late as dusk was falling and collected our hire car which was to accompany us on our explorations over the next 11 days. I had downloaded off-line maps for the Faroes and set off for our hotel – the Vagar Airport Hotel. Remember that name because it was many Km before we found the hotel driving down dark lanes only to be pulled up short at farm gates. We were hopelessly lost but I had a map right?! (I should have referred to our itinerary because that gave directions but no …..  ) I finally said let’s go back to the airport and start again and voila - there not far from the airport was the hotel – dark and a little hidden but with a few welcoming lights on.  We both breathed a huge sigh of relief and dashed inside (it was raining) to check in. 
Inside it was warm and inviting so we dumped our bags are headed in for dinner - by this time it was going on 9PM.
The sitting cum games room.

Friday, September 27, 2024

September 26 the end of an epic voyage

 

Longyearbyen - that is coal mining 'trappings' you can see at the port I think

The tender to take us and our luggage ashore
We disembarked at Longyearbyen early this morning and later flew to Paris - last days and transits are our least favour things to do. It always feels like (and in fact is) we're simply filling in time. Always a real anticlimax. However …. one last glimpse at our wonder-filled expedition. Our final day on board had been a fitting finale to an amazing voyage of discovery. I was looking forward to seeing a little of Longyearbyen but we had limited time.  We were taken to the excellent museum for a short visit (it was much as I remembered it from our visit in 2019).

Today Longyearbyen is the world's northernmost town, but the coal it was founded on formed in southern swamps. The dinosaurs walked the land and fantastic creatures swam the seas. They now lie as layers of rock in the mountains around where we were - and there was once coal in abundance as a result. Lindsay climbed one of these shaley mountains when we were here in 2019 looking for fossils. He found some ferns embedded between the rock layers - we still have them as precious mementos.  Coal is no longed mined I believe but it was very lucrative in Longyearbyen's fairly recent history.
A remnant processing plant and/or infrastructure of one of the coal mine.
We were bussed around Longyearbyen to arrive at an old meeting hall where locals fed us a huge early lunch because most of us had to be at the airport by 1pm. Then once again we said a sad farewell to the Arctic and we were off to the airport to fly to Paris where were to stay overnight before commencing our next adventure. The Paris flight was a Ponant chartered flight and we were treated in true Ponant fashion - a special 3 course lunch menu, snacks, wine and champagne of course.  A bientot!
A last wistful image gazing out at snow falling




Thursday, September 26, 2024

Sept 25 Ostre BurgerBukta

 

This morning we woke with towering spiky mountains peering in our windows - these sharp peaked mountains gave the island of Spitsbergen its name. This mountain cluster cradles a massive glacier - Ostre BurgerBukta.  It was a wonderfully moody morning. I had expected a zodiac cruise but that morphed into a landing then a walk to the face of Ostre BurgerBukta. Magnificent! Life doesn’t get much better than that. The massive mountains seemed to swallow us as we chugged across a calm sea in our rubber ducky to land on a black beach strewn with sparkling chunks of ice (Diamond Beach eat your heart out!).

 It was a superb, but rough, walk to the face of the glacier or rather the frozen melt lake at one side - that’s as close as it was safe to go. Many people climbed a huge moraine ‘hill’ to view the face and frozen melt lake but we chose to walk around that stiff climb to clamber in quiet solitude among rocks passing frozen wee lakes where Lindsay skipped stones! 
The strata of the rocks was fascinating and reminiscent of Greenland

There was a lot of seaweed washed up on the beach. How it anchors itself to the rocks is intriguing
We  walked around the back of this large mound of glacial moraine
After almost an hour surrounded by silence and harsh awesome beauty, the weather started to close in so we retraced our steps back to the landing point with snow falling gently all around us. Magical! 
Phil the beach captain standing guard
It's the kind of solitude we love - the two of us tramping together in silence
Once in the zodiac our lovely driver Leonie surprised us by taking us on a little cruise to where the glacier debouched into the sea. The water in front of the glacier was an almost transparent skirt of Nilas ice - a thin sheet of new sea ice (yes it was salty!). That means of course that there had been no recent calvings. A wonderful and fitting last excursion.
We were greeted back on board with warm spiced tea - very welcome
The glacier beautiful viewed from the ship
Fascinating rock strata 
The rest of the day was filled with last minute housekeeping, recaps and reports and packing. And you wouldn’t believe it but after all the difficult walking we’d done in great clumping gumboots over rocks etc, I caught my little toe on one of our cases and ….. you guessed it. Blast and damnation!! Not happy but what can you do - except take pain killers?
A wonderful shot taken by ship photographer of a bear near the ship being bothered by birds
Tonight was our last night and they are always rather bitter-sweet for everyone so I'm not going there! Tomorrow we disembark after what has been a magical voyage of exploration and surprises - and firsts! It started out as the Quest for Two Poles but ended up being the Success of the Three Poles.  We were first to reach the Magnetic North Pole in its current position; first 'cruise' ship to transect the Arctic ocean through the North Pole;  and first ship to reach the Arctic Pole of Inaccessibility. A mighty voyage and a great experience.
Our route around the islands of Svalbard to our final destination - Longyearbyen
Our record breaking transect!

November 1 home sweet home!

 After 2 months on the road and sea, we are finally home but we’ve been hiding - jet lagged and suffering with a touch of vertigo and a big ...