Saturday, October 19, 2024

October 17 to 19 Wales south coast - Laugharne

 

Roadworks everywhere - and houses on the move!

I'm surprised we didn't see more car crashes.
Our journey south took some interesting turns due to an accident on the road which had traffic at a standstill and banked up for a long way. Impatient me decided we’d take a detour to avoid the traffic crush - but I missed a turn off. The end result however was an unexpected but delightful drive through ‘country’ Wales.  
Lots of Rowan trees along the road but we couldn't pull over
Along the road I started to see stands of trees with bright red berries which I think were Rowan trees, Sorbus aucuparia. These trees are surrounded by some interesting mythology and folklore in many northern countries.   It was thought to be a magical tree which gave protection against malevolent beings.  The tree was also called ‘wayfarer's tree’ or ‘traveller's tree’ because it supposedly prevents those on a journey from getting lost - it didn’t work for us obviously!  It was said in England that this was the tree on which the Devil hanged his mother. 
More devilishly narrow roads
Llyn (Lake) Celyn - a reservoir 
The water level was pretty high - these people will be surprised when they return to their car!
Despite the meanderings and to cut a long story short we eventually made it to Laugharne and our caravan park (Ant Hill) after dark under a Hunters moon also called a Supermoon. The Hunter’s moon is so called because it is the time of year when leaves start to fall and animals have stuffed themselves with food to last over winter so they are nice and plump. Ancient communities would increase hunting at this time of year - or so the story goes. The next full moon is the Beaver Moon (worth investigating if you are into moons).  The moon aside ,we were relieved that we had arrived as we were both exhausted.
Laugharne (pronounced Larn) lies on the estuary of the River Tâf, and a number of other rivers, and after rain it floods. We saw the effects of that after just a small amount of rain – the beachfront flooded and some cars were under water. It was a rather memorable place for me. It was here that renowned Welsh poet Dylan Thomas spent much of his relatively short life. Eighty years ago (minus 1 week) he wrote a poem to mark his 30th birthday and to celebrate Laugharne which he loved. We stopped to read this poem under the lowering walls of an old Norman Castle built in the C12. He described Laugharne as a “timeless, mild, beguiling island of a town". I absolutely agree.  Dylan was a prolific and published poet from childhood. At age 14 he wrote a romantic poem to the moon, maybe a full moon like the one we saw. 
Clown in the Moon
“….. I think, that if I touched the earth,
It would crumble;
It is so sad and beautiful,
So tremulously like a dream.”
This is a perfect place for a hopeless romantic.
Laugharne Castle
Flooded beachfront at Laugharne
During the Medieval period, Laugharne Castle and other fortresses in this region were built to protect the waterways of South Wales against invasion but human presence in the region dates back tens of thousands of years. Excavations have found evidence that the caves in the cliffs acted as temporary shelter for groups of hunter-gatherers moving through the landscape over 50,000 years ago. And later findings of a range of flint tools indicate a series of occupations during the Stone Age. These discoveries suggest that the township is probably the oldest still-inhabited settlement in Wales.
Other significant places like Pembroke Castle, which we didn’t stop to explore, have layers of British, Norman, Welsh and Roman history that I simply don’t know about but from what I gather it is pretty complex dating back 2000-odd years.
Adorable squirrel
We took advantage of a fine day to do some washing and were watched! From the window of our van I saw a gorgeous little squirrel feeding on fir cones. We were then back on the road all clean and fresh ready to explore this southeastern region of Wales – very beautiful.  
Intriguing clock tower
Old watermill in Machynlleth taken as we whizzed past; sadly no place to turn around

The hedges are so neat and here's why - lots of haircuts
Pembroke Castle

Tenby - a popular beachside resort town 
It was fairly busy in the off-season so I shudder to think what it would be like in summer!
We stopped for a pie overlooking the water - great spot for a food van (run by a New Zealand couple!)

Fishguard - one of my favourite spots 
Not a lot of wriggle room particularly in a campervan! We just held our breath with fingers crossed
Don’t you just love a track like this - here they call this a road!
After a wonderful day of sightseeing we returned to our campsite as the sun was getting lower in the sky. Southeast Wales is pretty stunning.

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